Makeup for Different Eye Shapes: A Complete Guide

As professional visagistes, we know that eye makeup isn't one-size-fits-all. The techniques that create stunning results on one eye shape may not work as well on another. Understanding your unique eye shape and how to enhance it can transform your makeup routine and highlight your natural beauty. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore different eye shapes and share professional techniques for enhancing each one.

Identifying Your Eye Shape

Before diving into specific techniques, let's identify the main eye shapes. Look at your eyes in a mirror with your face relaxed and gaze straight ahead:

Almond Eyes

• Characterized by an oval shape with slightly upturned outer corners
• The iris may touch the top and bottom lids, but isn't covered by them
• The crease is visible when eyes are open

Round Eyes

• More circular in shape with less of an almond taper
• White of the eye visible all around the iris
• Prominent, clearly visible crease when eyes are open

Hooded Eyes

• Characterized by a fold of skin that droops over the crease
• Crease may be partially or completely hidden when eyes are open
• Lid space appears smaller or less visible

Monolid Eyes

• Little to no visible crease when eyes are open
• Flat appearance from lash line to brow bone
• Lid appears as a single, continuous surface

Downturned Eyes

• Outer corners angle downward
• May create a slightly drooping appearance
• Crease is typically visible

Upturned Eyes

• Outer corners angle upward, higher than the inner corners
• Often creates a natural "cat-eye" effect
• Typically has a visible crease

Deep-Set Eyes

• Set deeper into the skull beneath a prominent brow bone
• Creates a natural shadow on the lid
• Crease may appear more pronounced

Protruding Eyes

• Eyes appear to bulge forward slightly from the socket
• Eyelids may appear more prominent
• Large, highly visible lid space

Remember that many people have combination eye shapes with characteristics from multiple categories. The techniques we share can be adapted and combined to suit your unique features.

Makeup Techniques for Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are often considered the most versatile shape, working well with almost any eye makeup style. To enhance this naturally balanced shape:

Everyday Technique

1. Apply a neutral base shadow across the entire lid
2. Define the crease with a medium-toned shadow, following the natural contour
3. Apply a slightly darker shade to the outer V to enhance the almond shape
4. Line the upper lash line, keeping the line thinner at the inner corner and slightly thicker toward the outer corner
5. Apply mascara to both upper and lower lashes

Pro Tips

• Almond eyes can pull off both winged liner and smoky eyes beautifully
• For special occasions, experiment with gradient intensity from inner to outer corner for dimension
• Consider yourself lucky—most eye makeup tutorials are designed for almond eyes!

Makeup Techniques for Round Eyes

Round eyes are beautiful and expressive. Makeup can help create the illusion of elongation if desired:

Elongating Technique

1. Apply a light shade across the lid, concentrating on the inner corner
2. Use a medium shade in the crease, extending it slightly beyond the outer corner in an almond shape
3. Apply a darker shade to the outer third of the eye in a sideways V-shape, blending well
4. Line the upper lash line, thickening the line as you move outward, with a slight wing that extends up and out
5. Apply mascara, focusing on the outer lashes for an elongating effect

Pro Tips

• Avoid applying dark shadow or liner all the way around the eye, as this can emphasize roundness
• Focus darker colors on the outer third of the eye to create the illusion of an elongated shape
• Consider tight-lining the upper lash line to define eyes without closing them in

Makeup Techniques for Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes are characterized by a fold of skin that can make the lid space appear smaller. The key is working with this fold rather than fighting against it:

Creating Visible Dimension

1. Apply primer to ensure longevity, as shadow can transfer onto the hood
2. Look straight ahead in the mirror with eyes open while applying shadow to see exactly where colors will be visible
3. Apply a light, matte shade across the lid, up to where the hood begins
4. Place your crease color slightly above the natural crease, so it's visible when eyes are open
5. Apply darker shadow at the lash line, blending upward but staying below where the hood folds
6. Consider a thin line of dark shadow or liner right at the lash line, keeping it thin at the inner corner and slightly thicker toward the outer corner

Pro Tips

• Use waterproof formulas to prevent smudging and transfer
• Create a "floating crease" by applying crease color above the natural crease where it will be visible with open eyes
• Keep shimmer shadows on the center of the lid and inner corner; use mattes for contouring
• Consider applying liner with eyes open to ensure it appears as intended

Makeup Techniques for Monolid Eyes

Monolid eyes offer a beautiful, smooth canvas for makeup. The focus is on creating dimension and definition without relying on a crease:

Creating Dimension

1. Apply primer to prevent creasing and ensure longevity
2. Create a gradient effect by applying the lightest shade at the inner corner, a medium shade across the center, and a darker shade at the outer corner
3. Blend the shades seamlessly for a dimensional effect
4. Consider applying a thin line of eyeliner at the upper lash line, slightly thickening it toward the outer corner
5. Curl lashes thoroughly and apply volumizing mascara to create lift

Pro Tips

• Use the "gradient method" rather than the traditional "crease definition" approach
• Consider a "puppy liner" technique (where the wing angles slightly downward) for a flattering effect
• Individual lashes or lash extensions can open up the eye beautifully
• Shimmer on the center of the lid can create beautiful dimension

Makeup Techniques for Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes have outer corners that angle downward. Makeup can help create lift and balance:

Lifting Technique

1. Apply a light shade across the lid, concentrating on the inner two-thirds
2. Apply a medium shade in the crease, focusing on the outer corner and blending upward and outward
3. Place a darker shade at the outer corner in an upward, diagonal motion (rather than following the natural downward angle)
4. For eyeliner, create a small wing that angles upward to counteract the downward pull
5. Apply mascara, focusing on lifting the outer lashes upward

Pro Tips

• Avoid taking dark shadow or liner too far down at the outer corner
• Consider applying a light, brightening shadow at the outer corner of the lower lash line to lift the area
• Use an eyelash curler to lift lashes, holding it longer at the outer corner

Makeup Techniques for Upturned Eyes

Upturned eyes have a natural lift at the outer corners, creating a slight cat-eye effect. This shape can be further enhanced:

Enhancing Technique

1. Apply a light shade across the lid
2. Define the crease with a medium shade, following the natural upward curve
3. Apply a darker shade to the outer V, extending it slightly to enhance the upturned effect
4. Create a wing with eyeliner that follows the natural upward angle of the eye
5. Consider applying lighter shadow to the inner corner to brighten

Pro Tips

• This eye shape works beautifully with cat-eye liner looks
• Avoid heavy application of shadow or liner on the lower lash line, which can weigh down the natural lift
• Focus mascara on both upper and lower lashes to enhance the eye's natural shape

Makeup Techniques for Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes are recessed under the brow bone, creating natural shadow. The goal is to bring the eyes forward and brighten:

Brightening Technique

1. Apply a light, preferably luminous shade across the entire mobile lid to bring it forward
2. Use a medium shade in the crease, blending well to soften the natural shadow
3. Apply a highlighting shade under the brow bone and at the inner corner
4. Consider lining just the outer half of the upper lash line to define without deepening
5. Apply mascara generously to both upper and lower lashes

Pro Tips

• Avoid very dark shades in the crease, which can make eyes appear more recessed
• Light, shimmery shadows on the lid help bring the eyes forward
• Focus on brightening the inner corner to open up the eyes

Makeup Techniques for Protruding Eyes

Protruding eyes stand out from the face with a prominent eyelid. Makeup can help create balance:

Balancing Technique

1. Apply a medium-toned matte shade across the entire lid to minimize prominence
2. Use a slightly darker shade in the crease, blending well
3. Apply a dark shade close to the lash line, blending upward slightly
4. Consider lining both upper and lower lash lines to create definition
5. Apply mascara to both upper and lower lashes

Pro Tips

• Matte shadows tend to be more flattering than shimmers on protruding eyes
• Slightly darker shades on the lid can help minimize prominence
• Avoid highlighting the brow bone, which can emphasize the protrusion

Universal Eye Makeup Tips from Professional Visagistes

Regardless of your eye shape, these professional tips can help you achieve beautiful eye makeup:

• Primer is essential: It prevents creasing and ensures longevity, especially important for hooded and monolid eyes
• Blend, blend, blend: Harsh lines rarely flatter any eye shape
• Customize techniques: Adapt these guidelines to suit your unique features—many people have combination eye shapes
• Consider your eye size: The scale of your application should complement your eye size (smaller eyes generally need more delicate application)
• Practice with your eyes open: Check your work frequently with eyes open to ensure the effect is as intended when people see you
• Curl your lashes: This opens up the eyes regardless of shape
• Balance with brows: Well-groomed brows frame your eyes and enhance any eye makeup look

Final Thoughts

Understanding your eye shape is the first step toward creating makeup looks that truly enhance your natural beauty. While these guidelines provide direction, remember that makeup should be fun and expressive. Don't be afraid to experiment and adapt techniques to suit your personal style and preferences.

If you're still unsure about your eye shape or would like personalized guidance, consider booking a consultation with one of our professional visagistes. We can help identify your unique features and develop a custom makeup approach that highlights your natural beauty.